Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs

Only the bold survive on Goldfinch

Carnitas letdown inspires a quick second meal

Less than inspiring, even in a carnitas-loving town. Carnita Tacos. Harley Gray.
Less than inspiring, even in a carnitas-loving town. Carnita Tacos. Harley Gray.
Place

Harley Gray

902 W Washington Street, San Diego

Goldfinch Street in Mission Hills has become quite the dining hub, with restaurants like Brooklyn Girl, Izakaya Masa and the newly opened Patio worth waiting in line for, and the reliably great Lefty's is a worthy backup any time of day. Still, one corner location seems to have been left out of the boom. The Gathering recently closed after nearly three decades in business, and Harley Gray has opened in its place.

Owned by a local resident with a few geographically scattered restaurants to his name, Harley Gray has an intentionally diverse menu that makes describing it a challenge. I guess it's meant to be the kind of place you can go when you want a steak, then again when you want a salad, and once more the next day if you're feelin' seafood. You can find satisfying portions for ten dollars if you like, or twenty.

Sponsored
Sponsored

It's a nice idea, if not a compelling narrative. The space is open and comfortable, and filled with sunlight during the day. Its relative success will likely boil down to the food.

The seared ahi and soba noodle sounded great for brunch, but at 18 bucks I demurred. Either the french toast or eggs benedict might have won me over, but each seemed a little boring compared to the other offerings. I considered the Loco Moco, a carry-over from a sister restaurant in Lahaina, Maui, but this being San Diego, I ultimately settled on the carnitas tacos. After all, my lovely waitress told me they were the owner's favorite, and when has a lovely waitress ever led me astray?

At 12 dollars for the pair of tacos, plus 2 extra to add avocado (why wouldn't you?), I probably should have just sucked it up and gone for the ahi noodle salad. My tacos were thick with shredded pork, which I eat regularly because my cholesterol's still at a reasonable level and it tastes delicious. Except these fell short of delicious.

Not bad, but it seems to me if you have the advantage of cooking with flavorful meat in a spicy dish, the word bland should never enter the conversation. Even the salsa verde and jalapeño ranch dressing did little to perk it up. Although I left the place well fed, I wanted more, a feeling punctuated by all the other restaurants I had to pass walking back to my car.

In fact, and not for the first time in my life, I dropped by Lefty's for a slice of thin-crust pepperoni before going home. Now, how can I add avocado to that?

The latest copy of the Reader

Please enjoy this clickable Reader flipbook. Linked text and ads are flash-highlighted in blue for your convenience. To enhance your viewing, please open full screen mode by clicking the icon on the far right of the black flipbook toolbar.

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

Syrian treat maker Hakmi Sweets makes Dubai chocolate bars

Look for the counter shop inside a Mediterranean grill in El Cajon
Less than inspiring, even in a carnitas-loving town. Carnita Tacos. Harley Gray.
Less than inspiring, even in a carnitas-loving town. Carnita Tacos. Harley Gray.
Place

Harley Gray

902 W Washington Street, San Diego

Goldfinch Street in Mission Hills has become quite the dining hub, with restaurants like Brooklyn Girl, Izakaya Masa and the newly opened Patio worth waiting in line for, and the reliably great Lefty's is a worthy backup any time of day. Still, one corner location seems to have been left out of the boom. The Gathering recently closed after nearly three decades in business, and Harley Gray has opened in its place.

Owned by a local resident with a few geographically scattered restaurants to his name, Harley Gray has an intentionally diverse menu that makes describing it a challenge. I guess it's meant to be the kind of place you can go when you want a steak, then again when you want a salad, and once more the next day if you're feelin' seafood. You can find satisfying portions for ten dollars if you like, or twenty.

Sponsored
Sponsored

It's a nice idea, if not a compelling narrative. The space is open and comfortable, and filled with sunlight during the day. Its relative success will likely boil down to the food.

The seared ahi and soba noodle sounded great for brunch, but at 18 bucks I demurred. Either the french toast or eggs benedict might have won me over, but each seemed a little boring compared to the other offerings. I considered the Loco Moco, a carry-over from a sister restaurant in Lahaina, Maui, but this being San Diego, I ultimately settled on the carnitas tacos. After all, my lovely waitress told me they were the owner's favorite, and when has a lovely waitress ever led me astray?

At 12 dollars for the pair of tacos, plus 2 extra to add avocado (why wouldn't you?), I probably should have just sucked it up and gone for the ahi noodle salad. My tacos were thick with shredded pork, which I eat regularly because my cholesterol's still at a reasonable level and it tastes delicious. Except these fell short of delicious.

Not bad, but it seems to me if you have the advantage of cooking with flavorful meat in a spicy dish, the word bland should never enter the conversation. Even the salsa verde and jalapeño ranch dressing did little to perk it up. Although I left the place well fed, I wanted more, a feeling punctuated by all the other restaurants I had to pass walking back to my car.

In fact, and not for the first time in my life, I dropped by Lefty's for a slice of thin-crust pepperoni before going home. Now, how can I add avocado to that?

Comments
Sponsored

The latest copy of the Reader

Please enjoy this clickable Reader flipbook. Linked text and ads are flash-highlighted in blue for your convenience. To enhance your viewing, please open full screen mode by clicking the icon on the far right of the black flipbook toolbar.

Here's something you might be interested in.
Submit a free classified
or view all
Previous article

Escondido planners nix office building switch to apartments

Not enough open space, not enough closets for Hickory Street plans
Next Article

In-n-Out alters iconic symbol to reflect “modern-day California”

Keep Palm and Carry On?
Comments
Ask a Hipster — Advice you didn't know you needed Big Screen — Movie commentary Blurt — Music's inside track Booze News — San Diego spirits Classical Music — Immortal beauty Classifieds — Free and easy Cover Stories — Front-page features Drinks All Around — Bartenders' drink recipes Excerpts — Literary and spiritual excerpts Feast! — Food & drink reviews Feature Stories — Local news & stories Fishing Report — What’s getting hooked from ship and shore From the Archives — Spotlight on the past Golden Dreams — Talk of the town The Gonzo Report — Making the musical scene, or at least reporting from it Letters — Our inbox Movies@Home — Local movie buffs share favorites Movie Reviews — Our critics' picks and pans Musician Interviews — Up close with local artists Neighborhood News from Stringers — Hyperlocal news News Ticker — News & politics Obermeyer — San Diego politics illustrated Outdoors — Weekly changes in flora and fauna Overheard in San Diego — Eavesdropping illustrated Poetry — The old and the new Reader Travel — Travel section built by travelers Reading — The hunt for intellectuals Roam-O-Rama — SoCal's best hiking/biking trails San Diego Beer — Inside San Diego suds SD on the QT — Almost factual news Sheep and Goats — Places of worship Special Issues — The best of Street Style — San Diego streets have style Surf Diego — Real stories from those braving the waves Theater — On stage in San Diego this week Tin Fork — Silver spoon alternative Under the Radar — Matt Potter's undercover work Unforgettable — Long-ago San Diego Unreal Estate — San Diego's priciest pads Your Week — Daily event picks
4S Ranch Allied Gardens Alpine Baja Balboa Park Bankers Hill Barrio Logan Bay Ho Bay Park Black Mountain Ranch Blossom Valley Bonita Bonsall Borrego Springs Boulevard Campo Cardiff-by-the-Sea Carlsbad Carmel Mountain Carmel Valley Chollas View Chula Vista City College City Heights Clairemont College Area Coronado CSU San Marcos Cuyamaca College Del Cerro Del Mar Descanso Downtown San Diego Eastlake East Village El Cajon Emerald Hills Encanto Encinitas Escondido Fallbrook Fletcher Hills Golden Hill Grant Hill Grantville Grossmont College Guatay Harbor Island Hillcrest Imperial Beach Imperial Valley Jacumba Jamacha-Lomita Jamul Julian Kearny Mesa Kensington La Jolla Lakeside La Mesa Lemon Grove Leucadia Liberty Station Lincoln Acres Lincoln Park Linda Vista Little Italy Logan Heights Mesa College Midway District MiraCosta College Miramar Miramar College Mira Mesa Mission Beach Mission Hills Mission Valley Mountain View Mount Hope Mount Laguna National City Nestor Normal Heights North Park Oak Park Ocean Beach Oceanside Old Town Otay Mesa Pacific Beach Pala Palomar College Palomar Mountain Paradise Hills Pauma Valley Pine Valley Point Loma Point Loma Nazarene Potrero Poway Rainbow Ramona Rancho Bernardo Rancho Penasquitos Rancho San Diego Rancho Santa Fe Rolando San Carlos San Marcos San Onofre Santa Ysabel Santee San Ysidro Scripps Ranch SDSU Serra Mesa Shelltown Shelter Island Sherman Heights Skyline Solana Beach Sorrento Valley Southcrest South Park Southwestern College Spring Valley Stockton Talmadge Temecula Tierrasanta Tijuana UCSD University City University Heights USD Valencia Park Valley Center Vista Warner Springs
Close

Anchor ads are not supported on this page.

This Week’s Reader This Week’s Reader